AQUARTICLES•COM

Home

Main Index of Articles

Fish Breeding,Keeping Index

Search


Please read the 'Agreement' section on the View Articles page before downloading this article.


 

ARTICLE INFORMATION
Author:
Rich Grenfell
Title: Biotoecus opercularis
Summary: Rich found these seldom seen "Green Cichlids" easier to keep and breed than he had been told.
Contact for editing purposes:
email: President, Ed Katuska: EDKAT3@aol.com

Date first published:
Publication: Wet Pet Gazette, Norwalk Aquarium Society http://norwalkas.org
Reprinted from Aquarticles:
July 2004: Translated into Dutch, on Jan Bukkems' Aquavisie web site in Holland, at: http://aquavisie.retry.org/Database/Artikelen/Biotoecus_opercularis.html
ARTICLE USE: 
Internet publication (club or non-profit web site):

   1. Credit author, original publication, and Aquarticles.
   2.  Link to http://www.aquarticles.com  and original website if applicable.
   3.  Advise Aquarticles
Printed publication:
   Mail two printed copies to:

Norwalk Aquarium Society,
P.O. Box 84,
South Norwalk.
CT 06852
USA
   And one copy to:
Aquarticles
#205 - 5525 West Boulevard
Vancouver, British Columbia
V6M 3W6
Canada

Biotoecus opercularis …A challenge?

by Rich Grenfell
From Wet Pet Gazette, Norwalk Aquarium Society
Aquarticles

Introduction

These interesting little fellows come to us from northern Brazil; they inhabit blackwater sections and have been caught mainly around the town of Barcelos, in the Rio Urbaxi, and Rio Branco.

Description

Mature males are about 2 inches TL, females are slightly less. The body is elongate, and when not in breeding dress, the coloration is a drab olive green across the back, and silverish on the flanks. The belly region is white. They have five dorsal blotches beginning at the base of the dorsal fin, and heading back to the caudal peduncle. They also have another six of these spots mid-body. Mature males will have very obvious extensions on the tip of the dorsal, and both corners of the caudal fin. The female will have rounded fins with a much plumper abdomen. When breeding, they will take on a beautiful light green color over most of the body. The males will have a dazzling display of pastel coloration in the fins, and the females' ventral fins take on a dark yellow/orange color.

Care

These fish became available to me at the NEC Convention 2001. They were quite expensive at that time, and a friend and I pooled our money and ended up with 10 young fish. We were advised that they were going to need special care, such as RO (reverse osmosis) water, and live foods only. Since my friend had RO and I didn't, the little guys went home with him. After a few weeks of RO water changes and nothing but live blackworms and brine shrimp, he decided to toss in a bit of homemade paste food, and see what they would do with it. To his surprise they attacked it, eating up every scrap! Since we were told that this would not happen, he decided to see how they would do without the RO water. They spawned within a few days! Since caring for these fish turned out to be quite different than we were advised, I took my group home.

Environment

They were set up in a 10-gallon tank, with a half-inch of black sand on the bottom. The plants consisted of an Anubias in the center, with some Java fern in the corners. A large piece of driftwood covered with Java moss laid across the back of the tank, and some water sprite was sprinkled across the top. This fish needs very small caves. I took some flowerpots and broke them into small pieces and placed them about the tank to provide spawning places for them. A sponge filter in one corner supplied filtration.

Water

Good old New Haven CT tap water! I had success with discus on my tap water, so I didn't see any reason why the bios wouldn't do just as well. The pH fluctuated between 6.6 and 7.0, with a GH of just 4 degrees. Temperature was set at a steady 83 degrees, and water changes of 30% were done weekly. Food As with any other fish that I am attempting to breed, I provided them with a varied diet high in protein. They were fed twice daily with a rotating menu of frozen and live brine, frozen bloodworms, live blackworms, frozen daphnia, and a good paste food. Given this and the frequent water changes, it wasn't long before they were in breeding condition.

Breeding behavior

The fish turned out to be quite the little excavators! The female picks out a nice little cave from the flowerpot shards provided, and begins to dig, until there is a nice lip of sand built up outside the mouth of the cave. She spends quite a bit of time doing this and this is a good sign that a spawning will soon take place. The male makes sure that all other fish stay out of the area. They spawn much like apistos, with the eggs being attached to the ceiling of the cave. The eggs hatch in three days or so, and the young are kept on the inside the cave until free swimming. They are free swimming in 4 to 5 days, and are then herded around the tank by mom. She is very careful to keep any drifters within the group. The male fish defends the fry for the first day or two but the fry care is undertaken mainly by mom.

Raising the fry

I wanted another spawn, so I removed the first spawn after the first week, and placed them in their own 20 long. This tank was bare bottom, with a few water sprite floating on top. They aren't large enough to take BBS right away, and I used microworms, and some powder food for the first 3 days. I then fed them 3 times daily with BBS. They grow surprisingly fast at first, but growth slows considerably after a few weeks. Mine were just less than 1 inch at approximately 4 months old.

Conclusion

Despite what I was told about these fish, I found them to be quite hardy, and easy to work with. I enjoyed them completely and ended up with more fry than expected. Their small size lends to easy space requirements, and they are quite eclectic in their food preferences. If you are looking for a bit of a different dwarf, give bios a try, they won't let you down!