Note from Aquarticles.com -The following three articles may be used together or in series:

Fish Health: Part One

By Jason Shaw
First published in "The Fishy Times," Campbell River Aquarium Society.
Aquarticles

   After doing a little more thinking about our newsletter and dealing with some of my latest problems, doing a fish health column was really making sense. In no way am I a doctor or an expert on fish disease, but I do have a few fish health classes under my belt and feel that if a club member has a particular problem which they would like to know more about, I could do their homework for them.

   To kick this column into gear I figured a little history might be in order, followed by some general precautions.

   Fish disease has been around as long as there have been fish, but believe it or not, we’ve only taken it seriously for the last thirty years. There are a few notes that date back to the 1800’s but nothing to any detail. Of course the technologies of today have opened a whole new world. It wasn’t until the early 1970’s that some real progress in fish health was made. With increasing industrial wastes and pollution, fish populations have really taken a beating, leading to high disease problems.

   Fish disease is directly related to stress: sound familiar? The first step in fighting disease is prevention. It does sound a little obvious, but is often overlooked. Knowing in detail the species of fish you are keeping and its requirements is very important. Without this information you are doomed from the beginning. There are many water quality parameters that are very different for each species: pH, temperature, water hardness, salinity and many other trace elements. If one of these parameters is sacrificed, this leads to stress, which leads to……. you got it!!

   One of the most exciting parts of keeping fish is feeding time. A fish’s diet is of most importance. Once again it may vary from species to species. Some require a high vegetable diet, while others need live insects, high in protein. Once a fish starts lacking in nutritional requirements, it's immune system struggles to operate efficiently. A poor diet will result in a stressed fish, which leads to……now you’re getting it.

   One of the best things you can do for your fish is WATCH THEM! That is why you bought them. They will always give you signs if they are stressed. They will do such things as: swim listlessly around the tank, hover in a corner, clamp up their fins, stop eating, scratch up against objects or just about anything that looks abnormal. These are your warning signs and should be acted on immediately.

   One last thing to keep in mind is that your fish are at your mercy. They have to live in the same environment that they (do their business) in, so it is up to you to keep their living space clean. Monthly water changes of 20% are a good rule of thumb.

   Hopefully this has given you a little more insight on disease prevention. Next month I will talk more about prevention, remedies and purchasing that new fish.

Fish Health: Part Two

   Last month I talked a bit about disease prevention and what to look for.

   Sometimes no matter how well you think you are doing with your collection of aquatic buddies, things just go wrong. There could be many causes and a lot of times you may not figure it out. My last dealing with disease was very hard to diagnose, and I’m still not positive what happened. I maybe could have avoided this situation if I had a hospital (quarantine) tank set-up.

   Most people, including myself don’t realise how necessary it is to quarantine new arrivals. Even healthy looking fish can be carriers of disease pathogens. Adding a new species to your flourishing community of fish is a disaster waiting to happen. The first step in adding new fish begins at the pet shop, assuming you have done your homework on the species you want to add to your community. Make sure you spend some time observing the fish you are interested in. Look for signs of distress. Don’t be afraid to ask the shop employees questions about the fish. When did these arrive in your store? How do they seem to be doing? Are they being treated for disease right now? Also be sure that your tank parameters match those of the shop owners. If you are unsure to make a decision, that’s ok! You would be much better off to come back next week when the new arrivals have settled in. One’s perception of what   to look for in a fish can vary. It basically comes down to your purpose for the purchase, whether it be for breeding, or for viewing pleasure. Just be sure that your specimen has all its proper finnage and is in good physical condition.

   Once you have your new buddy home, there are many precautions to take. Place your new friend in it's own isolated tank. Leave the fish in it's bag, floating for fifteen minutes to equalise temperatures.  Then undo the bag and allow some tank water to mix with the bag water, allowing it to float for five minutes. This will help acclimatise the fish to the pH of the tank. Once this time period is over, undo the bag and allow it to float freely. This will allow the fish to exit the bag when it feels comfortable. Once your fish is in the tank, be sure to keep it dimly lit and the temperature  steady at that species’ optimal range. Allow the fish twelve hours to become accustomed to the tank. During this time, observe.  The next day raise the temperature slightly and look for signs of any pathogens. It also would not hurt at this time to add one teaspoon of sea salt per gallon (unless the species is adversely affected by traces of salt). Over the next few weeks, observe for signs of disease. If something shows up, write the symptoms down in detail. Describe the fish’s condition and its characteristics. You should then proceed to your favourite pet shop and discuss your problem there. They can then prescribe you  the proper treatment. Once your fish has passed its four week inspection and you feel the fish is free of disease, you  can proceed with the transfer into it's community. I know that this seems like a lot of work but it can save you time and money in the long run. You don’t want to lose your whole family because of one sick fish, do you?   

   O.K. troops, last month I talked about fish selection and the use of a hospital tank. This month I would like to discuss “the process of elimination."

   It wasn’t that long ago that I suffered substantial losses in my fish room. It was a real drag but what I learned from that experience will help me in the future.

   There are many common diseases in the aquarium trade. The reason that pathogens do so well in this hobby is stress. If you think of it from a human standpoint, it makes sense. We all encounter stress in our lives and a lot of our health problems are caused by it. Fish are no different. So one of the main goals as a fish hobbyist is to relive the stress. Most pathogens target the weak. They will then grow stronger and mount a bigger attack on healthier fish. As defence, fish have a few weapons of their own. Their first line of defence is avoidance. Fish will move out of harm’s way when possible. Examples of this would be hot or cold fluctuations or a visible parasite such as a leech. Their second line of defence is a mucus coat. This is secreted from the fish to form a layer over its body. The healthier the fish, the thicker the coat. Their last defence is their scales. These overlap to form a coat of armour.

   As you can see the odds seem to be in the fish’s favour. Unfortunately, pathogens are among the most opportunistic organisms on the planet: they have to be, to survive. Once a fish’s defences are down, many parasites are well adapted to prey on the wounded soldier. I know not many of us are soldiers but you should never leave the wounded to die. This is where you need to step in and fight back. Time is of the essence so you must act quickly and accurately.       

    Now there is some good news and some bad news… Which do you want first? Most symptoms of many pathogens can overlap….meaning your listless fish might not be divulging much information. The good news is you may be able to force the enemy to rear its ugly head. The way to do that is crank up the heat. All living things have an optimal temperature at which they prosper best. By increasing the water temperature you can speed up their life cycle and decrease their optimal range. This will also stress your fish further but he’s a goner regardless. Throw an extra air stone in to help with the oxygen level. Now… not only does every living thing have an optimal temperature range, it also has an optimal environment. If I took away your oxygen, you’d know what I meant in a minute. So, by adding sea salt to your fresh water tank you may also discourage the enemy from further attack. After a few hours in the trenches you should have a good idea what you’re up against. Your next step is to find the proper medication for your fish’s ailment. Your favourite local pet shop is your best bet. There are many medications on the market and you shouldn’t have much trouble finding what you need. Be sure to follow the prescription fully.

   Well, that was basic training. You may not always be able to save your buddies but don’t go down without a fight.