Receiving Mail-Order Aquarium Plants

by Robert Paul Hudson
from Robert's web site in Salem Oregon: Aquabotanic.com
Aquarticles

1. DO NOT let aquarium plants dry out when you're working on them.

2. Carry plants upside-down to prevent leaf breakage.

3. Do not try to remove plants from the top or bottom if they're packed in a plastic bag. Slit the bag from top to bottom, then remove the plant.

4. Remove any broken leaves, soft stems or brown leaves.

5. Some aquarium plants may do a melt-down when subjected to adverse conditions. More often than not, if the roots are white, the plant can grow back.

6. Many aquarium plants are raised or collected emersed. Most aquatic plants that are raised emersed and then submersed must change their leaf structure to survive underwater. This is a very interesting event. Some plants like Wisteria and Rotala make very dramatic leaf changes, others like swords and Sag. usually drop their leaves and grow new ones.

BUNCH Aquarium Plants:

Bunch plants are actually single stem plants or cuttings bound together by a band (rubber or lead). The purpose of the banding is to make it look like one plant with a great deal more sales appeal than a single stem would have.

I like to remove all leaves from the bottom portion of the stem that is going into the substrate. Usually an inch or so depending on the plants. Many experts don't bother to remove these leaves and just plant them the way they come in. Regardless, of which way you do it, on medium to large plants, try to get several leaf nodes in the substrate. The node is the little bump on the stem where the leaf is attached.

Small aquarium plants like Rotala indica or Mayaca can be planted tightly as if the bands were still holding them together. The bigger the type of plant, the more space you should give the individual stems.

A typical bunch plant is usually 5"-8" with many exceptions. To a newbie, this might suggest these are front or middle ground plants. These plants won't care where you put them, but they're fast growers and even the little guys will be at the top of your tank in no time.

Bunch plants are propagated, or more to the point, controlled by cuttings. I don't like do to any pruning until the plants have had at least a month to grow roots. Top cutting of 5"-6" are the most common. The cuttings are the most viable part of the plant and are often planted. The remaining portion has a tendency to branch and become thicker. Sometimes when a plant has been trimmed too many times it gets scrawny looking and should be replaced with fresh top cuttings.

ROSETTE Aquarium plants:

These are aquarium plants where the stems (leaves) meet at a central place at the base. Swords, cryptocoryne and grass-like plants are the majority.

1.Remove any, old, dead , soft or broken leaves as close to the base as possible.

2.Only the roots should be planted in the substrate.

Bulbs- In most cases the bulbs should be planted about 3/4 into the substrate. Aponogeton, lilies, Crinium.

Rhizomes- Should never be completely buried, or they may rot! . Cryptocoryne, Anubias

Ferns- The roots on a fern are not functional for nutrient uptake in the gravel. Instead they are used mostly to hold onto objects like driftwood or rocks. Java Fern, Bolbitis, Borneo fern.

Removing Pots and Wool:

In most cases, it is not a good idea to leave the plant in the pot, as it is quite small and restricting. The rock wool is said to contain growth chemicals and hormones, and even nitrate or phosphorus. Plants that I pot myself contain none of these things...plants that I buy wholesale...I have no idea!

If the plant has not been growing in the pot for too long, it will pull apart easily, but if the opposite is true, there will be a tangled mess of roots around the pot and wool. If it does not come out easily, simply cut away the pot and trim off the roots. Split the wool at one side and gently pull it apart. A thick root mass can be easily trimmed, but if small amounts of wool are left in the root ball close to the plant, it is nothing to worry about.

Disinfecting Plants:

There are ways to protect your tank from new plants introducing possible harmful pathogens, parasites, and snails.

Potassium permanganate: Ten minute soak. This is particularly effective against harmful bacteria.

Jungle Products Clear Water: A diluted form of potassium permanganate

Lime It:  An aquarium product effective against snail eggs and bacteria

Alum USP: Available at drug stores. This kills microscopic bugs and snail eggs. 10 teaspoons to a gallon of water. Soak the plants for up to three days.

Household bleach: 1 part bleach to 19 parts water. Effective against pathogens, algae, and snails. Can also cause severe damage to plants, particularly sensitive stem plants. Do not allow the roots, bulbs, or rhizome to come in contact with the bleach. Soak for two minutes and rinse completely with clear water and dechlor.