Note: There is not much here about fish!
To see more fish, go directly to: Part
2b, An Aquarium Market in Xi'an
A Tour of China in Winter
Part 2a
Xi'an and the Army of Terracotta Warriors
By Howard Norfolk
Original to Aquarticles.com
From Beijing, my friend and I travelled south on the overnight 'soft
sleeper' express train to Xi'an, a city in the very centre of China.
We had a compartment to ourselves since it was off-season, and the train
was comfortable and fast. The bedding was new and fresh, and each bunk had its own TV with
headphones. There was even a vase of flowers on the table, and the ride was so smooth the
vase didn't move or fall over. It was much more relaxing than flying, which would have
taken a whole uncomfortable day with lots of security hassles and waiting around.
The Army of Terracotta Warriors
In 1974 when digging a well, a farmer made what some people consider the major
archaeological find of the 20th Century (anyone for King Tut?). He discovered a 2200 year
old underground vault that contained thousands of life-sized figures and their horses in
battle formation - an 'army of terracotta warriors.'
I well remember the publicity this received at the time, and being amazed
by the stories and photos in National Geographic Magazine. At last I was to see them!
We drove to a small town an hour or two from Xi'an, and after entering the
main gate of the Warrior compound we walked through landscaped parkland towards one of the
buildings:
The main building had an impressive entrance.
Click on photos for enlargements, then
go 'BACK'
  
Inside were the warriors, row upon row. About 6000 have been
discovered so far.
The hangar-like structure was huge. I was so intrigued that I walked
around it twice while my friend Mani and our new guide "Sandy" waited at the
back exit.
Next, we stood in a theatre and watched a documentary 'Circle Vision'
movie that showed battles being fought, the death of the Emperor, the making of the
terracotta army, its vandalising by an invading army shortly afterwards, and then its
rediscovery after being forgotten for 2200 years. The movie had thousands of extras, and
no commentary - just stirring sound effects and music so that everyone could enjoy it.
 
There were several more large buildings in the compound. This one
covered another vault, where a further 1000 figures had been discovered in 1976.
 
Some of the figures were displayed how they were found - in pieces.
As the sign says, they "were stick together."
Excavation was still taking place.
Apparently when the warriors are first uncovered they may be
brightly coloured. These colours fade when exposed to light, so some sections have been
left undisturbed to await future technology that can preserve the colours properly.
 
A museum area displayed some perfect specimens.
Swords were found with sharp edges after 2200 years. The ancient
Chinese invented chrome plating!
 
These half life-sized bronze horses and chariot were discovered
nearby, in 1980.
The site is in a wide valley with mountains to the sides. As we
left, a modern 'army' was clearing ice from the large forecourt.
China is still governed by the Communist Party, but the modern
economy is free enterprise to the extreme. Street pedlars follow tourists wherever they
go. (The most popular item they offer is "Rolex" watches). I bought a box of
miniature warriors that this man had hidden under his coat. A security guard shooed him
away thinking that he was pestering me too much, but he returned and I took this snap. (I
hope he doesn't get into more trouble if 'they' see this!).
The nearby town is booming because of the tourist traffic....
 
...and the locals are back at their old trade of making terracotta
warriors and model horses! Souvenirs can be purchased right up to life size.
Xi'an City Walls
The Shaanxi region and the city of Xi'an have a long history. During the Zhou Dynasty,
which ended in 770BC, several places in the area served as capitals. The later Qin and
Tang dynasties were also based here. The region declined after the capital was moved to
Beijing in the 9th Century. Subsequent rural poverty provided core support for the
Communists from the 1920s on.
The City Walls are a prominent landmark when driving around Xi'an. They
were re-built, over older foundations, in the 14th Century.
No, I didn't go to prison! Our hotel was right beside the city wall,
and this was the view from the window of our room one cold and snowy morning.
We climbed the wall on a nicer day, and could see how the walls and
moat divide the city - new part on the left, old on the right.
This gate and the wooden fortress above it are over 600 years old.
 
The wall is wide enough for an army to march along.
Banpo Neolithic Village
Xi'an has much older things to explore. In 1953 a neolithic settlement (occupied from
4500BC to about 3750BC) was found, and the excavations and artifacts are on display.
A replica village has been built, and in summertime scantily clad
ladies recreate neolithic life for tourists.
 
It was too cold for them to perform when we were there, so we had to
make do with this cute statuette and the artwork on some hut roofs.
The neolithic people produced totem poles, using clay instead of
carving wood. Could their kin be those who brought totem pole culture to North America?
The clay pole above had fish on it, and this one was entirely in the
shape of a fish.
  
...And they weren't the only fish I saw. In the museum there were
some 6000 year old pottery fish.
I have a fondness for masks and have a collection of them from all over
the World. Here are photos of some masks in the Banpo Museum:
   
   
Decorations on the archway leading to the restaurant suggested that
they celebrated 'Xmas' even in neolithic times! In China, at least in the tourist areas,
you just can't get away from 'Xmas.'
Tomb of Qin Shiang
Another World Heritage site is the Tomb of Qin Shiang, where an emperor was
buried in AD683...
 
There isn't much to see except a burial mound and some artifacts,
but the topiary dragon in the garden was special.
The Big Goose Pagoda
This temple was originally built in the 7th Century, and has since been rebuilt, restored
and added to many times.
It was snowing heavily the morning of our visit.
  
Buddhists still worship there.
Shaanxi History Museum
Finally, the region's long, long history is chronologically displayed in the History
Museum, which is said to be one of the best museums in China.
These Communist Red Flags co-ordinated well with the Pepsi umbrellas
of the outdoor snack bar.
 
The complex is modern (1992) and built in classical Tang style.
My friend Mani and our guide 'Sandy' must have wished I would stop
taking photos so that they could get inside out of the snow!
There were rows and rows of glass cases.
  
  
These are some of the things that I liked.
 
I don't think I'd seen a 'Magic Square' before.
 
The Terracotta Warriors were represented.
Everything was very valuable, and protected by smart guards.
One more thing:
  
Some traffic lights in Xi'an use a system that counts down the
number of seconds until green, and then counts down the green seconds.... An absolute
paradise for drag racing and for running the lights.
One day I raced to the Xi'an aquarium market...
Go to the next in this series:
China Tour Part 2b: An Aquarium Market
in Xi'an
The whole Tour of China in Winter series:
Part 1a: Introduction, and the Tourist Sights
of Beijing (Tourist sights)
Part 1b: A Visit to the Beijing Aquarium
(Public aquarium)
Part 1c: An Arcade of Aquarium Shops in
Beijing (Aquarium shops)
Part 1d: The Beijing Museum of
Natural History (Tourist sights)
Part 2a: Xi'an and the Army of Terracotta Warriors (Tourist
sights)
Part 2b: An Aquarium Market in Xi'an
(Aquarium shops)
Part 3a: The Spectacular Scenery of Guilin
(Tourist sights)
Part 3b: A Visit to the Guilin Ocean
Aquarium (Public aquarium)
Part 4a: The Space-Age City of Shanghai (Tourist sights)
Part 4b: A Visit to the Shanghai Ocean
Aquarium (Public aquarium)
Part 4c: Jiangyin Road, a Street of Aquarium
Shops in Shanghai (Aquarium shops)
Part 5: Fish Seen in Chinese
Restaurants (Native fish)
Part 6a: A Photographic Visit to Ocean Park,
Hong Kong (Public aquarium)
Part 6b: The Goldfish Pagoda at Ocean Park,
Hong Kong (Public aquarium)
See also (after a previous visit to Hong Kong):
Tung Choi. The Amazing Aquarium Store Street in Hong
Kong (Aquarium shops)
Or, back to:
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