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ARTICLE INFORMATION:
Author: Howard Norfolk
Title: Tung Choi. The Amazing Aquarium Store Street in Hong Kong
Summary:  Tung Choi Street in Hong Kong is packed with over one hundred aquarium stores. A photographic essay.
Contact for editing purposes:
email: hownorf@aquarticles.com

Date first published: February 2002
Publication: Original to Aquarticles
Reprinted from Aquarticles:
July 2002: translated into Hungarian language, on Endre Paller's web site Edesvizi Akvarisztika, at:
http://edak.cellkabel.hu  (Go to 'Cikkek').
September 2002: translated into Croatian language, on Tihomir Popovic's web site in Zagreb, at http://www.orbicon.com/hraquatica/ribe/tung_choi.asp.
Sept 2003: Posted by the Goldfish Paradise Society on goldfishparadise.com
ARTICLE AND PHOTO USE:

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Jim Norfolk
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Burlington, Ontario
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Tung Choi.
The Amazing Street of Aquarium Stores in Hong Kong

by Howard Norfolk
Original to
Aquarticles


As a fish addict travelling the World, sometimes I have to suffer by going  for several days without seeing a single live fish! If there isn't a public aquarium to visit I have to satisfy my cravings in other ways. I was well satisfied in Hong Kong…

On my first day in Hong Kong I took the famous old Star Ferry from Kowloon across the Harbour to Hong Kong Island and the Central City. After the obligatory visit to Victoria Peak, with its great views of the City and Harbour, I took the Peak Tram down, and walked to the Botanical and Zoological Gardens, and then to Hong Kong Park.
In the ponds of this scenic little park tucked in amongst the tall City buildings I got my first glimpse of koi in China.

0003 Park pond-tmb.jpg (5109 bytes)

0004 40b Koi-tmb.jpg (3049 bytes)

Hong Kong Park with its beautiful koi

CLICK ON PHOTOS FOR ENLARGEMENTS...THEN GO "BACK"

But it was my visits to the aquarium store district that really made my stay memorable…

Hong Kong is hilly, and land is in short supply for its large population. So just about everyone lives in small, expensive, often cramped apartments in huge high-rise buildings.

0001 27b From Peak-tmb.jpg (3550 bytes)

View of the City from Victoria Peak  

0002 43b Apts scenic-tmb.jpg (2997 bytes)

A residential area

What pets can they keep in these apartments? - Caged birds and aquarium fish of course, and they can indulge their gardening instincts on potted plants. All three of these interests are very well catered for in Hong Kong. Apparently, aquariums have the added advantage of "luck-bringing qualities when properly positioned in the home".

Ornamental fish keeping is a Chinese tradition, the first goldfish being developed in China about the year AD 1000. (They were established in Japan by 1500, reached Europe in the 1600s, and were introduced to America a little later). Nowadays Hong Kong is of course a major centre for breeding and exporting aquarium fish.

My tourist map told me that the "exotic Goldfish Market" was to be found in Kowloon on Tung Choi Street, next to the "colourful Flower Market" and the "charming Bird Garden". So on my second day in Hong Kong I naturally made a beeline for the Goldfish Market, and was truly amazed at what I found there!

Hong Kong is one of those cities where trades of the same kind are all located together, and two or three blocks of Tung Choi Street are lined on both sides with well over one hundred aquarium stores. I didn't attempt to count them or even look at them all - for all I know there could be two hundred! Curiously, mixed in with the aquarium stores at one end of the street are quite a few bicycle shops, which reminded me of the old saying about needing something "like a fish needs a bicycle"!  Further along Tung Choi Street is the "Ladies' Market", where bargain-priced clothing and household accessories are sold.

0025 16b General view-tmb.jpg (4692 bytes)

0016 21b Street-tmb.jpg (4832 bytes)

Tung Choi Street, lined on both sides with aquarium stores.

0023 06b Street w store-tmb.jpg (4739 bytes)

0024 07b 3 stores-tmb.jpg (5332 bytes)

Aquarium store….aquarium store….aquarium store....aquarium store

Most of the aquarium stores are small; a single room fifteen or twenty feet wide, and not much deeper. But what they lack in space they make up for in stock. The stores are crammed with fish tanks and the tanks are stuffed with huge numbers of exotic fish. Many stores have room inside for just a handful of browsers at a time, and business is so brisk that shoppers have to wait their turn or edge their way in to look at the tanks. But here comes the amazing part : you don't have to go inside a store to buy - the fish are all bagged up and ready to go, hanging in huge quantities on racks outside! You can take your pick of common or rare fish of any size and in any quantity, and of course at very competitive prices. If you don't see what you want, you can just stroll down the street and look at more and more racks of fish bags.

0012 11b Store w bags-tmb.jpg (5439 bytes)

0013 17b Bags-tmb.jpg (4993 bytes)

Typical displays of ready-to-go fish  

0014 20b Bags-tmb.jpg (4783 bytes)

The prices here are in $Hong Kong.
(Hong Kong $7.8 = US$1)

0022 01b Crowd at store-tmb.jpg (4491 bytes)

Getting in the small crowded stores is difficult,
and it is sometimes hard even to see the
outside racks.

0008 02  Close-up of bags MAS-tmb.jpg (4615 bytes)

The fish at the top is one of my favourites,
Myxocyprinus asiatica sinensis, for US$10. 

0011 10b Catching goldfish-tmb.jpg (4011 bytes)

Catch your own goldfish

As you can see, the shoppers in these photos are dressed in their heavy winter coats. It was December, the middle of winter, when temperatures average about 15ºC (60ºF), and lower with wind chill. Despite this, tropical fish of all kinds were hanging outside in their bags to shiver. It seems like a lot of work and handling, but I am told the fish are kept in holding tanks overnight and re-bagged every morning.

All the bags had prices clearly marked on them, and I jotted down a few typical prices
per bagful  (in $US):
10 Tiger barbs, $2;  10 Platies, $2;  4 Angelfish, $2;  4 Gouramis, $4; 4 Scats, $5; 
200 Neon tetras (!), $9;  Male bettas, 70c each;  6" Sturgeons, $5 each;
Various African cichlids, 4 for $1.50;  Large quantities of guppies, $2 to $6 per bag; 
Very bright small 3" koi, 11c each (!).

Most of the stores have general stock, but some specialise in various aspects of fishkeeping, including of course salt water, goldfish, koi, African cichlids, angelfish, discus, aquatic plants, and dry goods. You don't just find one store of each type - for every interest there are numerous specialists. The specialist stores generally take a more sophisticated approach to their sales - you get to see their fish in tanks rather than plastic bags! - but they are also crowded and small, so I didn't get many photos of them. They have a huge number of varieties and species of fish, including quite a few that I had never seen before.

 

0020 22b Man w goldfish-tmb.jpg (4954 bytes)

A goldfish specialist

0009 04b Koi in street-tmb.jpg (3840 bytes)

0015 19b Cichlids-tmb.jpg (4346 bytes)

A cichlid specialist

0010 05b Catching koi-tmb.jpg (3965 bytes)

If you don't have a store, just sell koi on the curb!

0017 24b Plants-tmb.jpg (4798 bytes)

Some aquatic plants on the pavement 
outside a store.

0019 27b Woman-tmb.jpg (5013 bytes)

This lady was packaging fish food.

0021 25b Fish w plants-tmb.jpg (4908 bytes)

Fish and plants ready-to-go.
Plants are packaged in long thin bags.

0018 26b Plants w turtles-tmb.jpg (4500 bytes)

She also had plants, and a tray full of turtles.

A couple of days later I went back to the Goldfish Market!
I had another good look at the fish, and then walked a few blocks through the truly colourful Flower Market, to the Bird Garden. Apparently birds used to be sold on a street much like the aquarium street, but the bird stores have since been gathered together in a special park-like compound.

0005 14b Bird Garden entrance-tmb.jpg (4601 bytes)

"Welcome to Bird Garden"  

0006a 15b Cages close-tmb.jpg (4808 bytes)

A great variety of birds

 

0006 17b Shops-tmb.jpg (5142 bytes)

The Bird Garden has about fifty shops like these.

0007 16b Small cages-tmb.jpg (5093 bytes)

Exotic birds in these hand made cages sell for US$20 -25. Apparently Chinese gamblers think that birds bring good luck, and will even take them along in small cages when they go to the horse races.

Sometimes I visit a city and think "I wouldn't mind living here".  I didn't get that feeling in Hong Kong,  because crowds and high-rise apartments are not for me.  But I wouldn't mind living around the corner from Tung Choi Street!  I have never before seen so many different fish together at one time as I did there. I even had the crazy idea that there were more fish there than the total I had ever seen in my life!  Perhaps not....but just think.... to see all the fish in one hundred stores you would have to visit a different well-stocked store every week for two years!

***

ADDENDUM: After reading the above, Eric Ho of Hong Kong kindly sent me the following information, which I'm sure will be of interest to those visiting Hong Kong:

"I would like to tell you that there is an open air fish market in Kowloon. It is located in Boundary Street near the Mongkok Stadium. This fish market is organized by hawkers who sell ornamental fishes on the street, on a semi-wholesale basis. The market opens everyday at around 4 a.m. in the morning and closes before sunrise.

'The fish market started in the 1960's outside the Mongkok train station. Fish shop owners from all over Hong Kong went to the fish market to buy their stock. As time went by, some of the hawkers earned enough money and they began to open their own shops.

'During the early 1980's, the government began to build a new train station. The fish market moved to nearby Boundary Street. Some of the hawkers began to open their own shops in Tung Choi Street. After that, more and more fish shops opened in Tung Choi Street.

'Nowadays, the open air fish market still operates in Boundary Street. The size and popularity of the fish market is reducing since many shop owners buy their fish directly from fish farms.

'Next time you visit Hong Kong, I hope that you can visit the fish market. Please remember to bring an electric torch!"


See also, after a later visit to Hong Kong and China -

A Tour of China in Winter:
Part 1a: Introduction, and the Tourist Sights of Beijing
(Tourist sights)
Part 1b: A Visit to the Beijing Aquarium
(Public aquarium)
Part 1c: An Arcade of Aquarium Shops in Beijing
(Aquarium shops)
Part 1d: The Beijing Museum of Natural History
(Tourist sights)
Part 2a: Xi'an and the Army of Terracotta Warriors
(Tourist sights)
Part 2b: An Aquarium Market in Xi'an
(Aquarium shops)
Part 3a: The Spectacular Scenery of Guilin
(Tourist sights)
Part 3b: A Visit to the Guilin Ocean Aquarium
(Public aquarium)
Part 4a: The Space-Age City of Shanghai
(Tourist sights)
Part 4b: A Visit to the Shanghai Ocean Aquarium
(Public aquarium)
Part 4c: Jiangyin Road, a Street of Aquarium Shops in Shanghai
(Aquarium shops)
Part 5:   Fish Seen in Chinese Restaurants 
(Native fish)
Part 6a: A Photographic Visit to Ocean Park, Hong Kong
(Public aquarium)
Part 6b: The Goldfish Pagoda at Ocean Park, Hong Kong
(Public aquarium)

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