Tung Choi.
The Amazing Street of Aquarium Stores in Hong Kong
by Howard Norfolk
Original to Aquarticles
As a fish addict travelling the World, sometimes I have to suffer by going for
several days without seeing a single live fish! If there isn't a public aquarium to visit
I have to satisfy my cravings in other ways. I was well satisfied in Hong Kong
On my first day in Hong Kong I took the famous old Star
Ferry from Kowloon across the Harbour to Hong Kong Island and the Central City. After the
obligatory visit to Victoria Peak, with its great views of the City and Harbour, I took
the Peak Tram down, and walked to the Botanical and Zoological Gardens, and then to Hong
Kong Park.
In the ponds of this scenic little park tucked in amongst the tall City buildings I got my
first glimpse of koi in China.
Hong Kong Park
with its beautiful koi
CLICK ON PHOTOS FOR ENLARGEMENTS...THEN GO "BACK"
But it was my visits to the aquarium store district that really made
my stay memorable
Hong Kong is hilly, and land is in short supply for its large
population. So just about everyone lives in small, expensive, often cramped apartments in
huge high-rise buildings.

View of the City from Victoria
Peak |

A residential area |
What pets can they keep in these apartments? - Caged
birds and aquarium fish of course, and they can indulge their gardening instincts on
potted plants. All three of these interests are very well catered for in Hong Kong.
Apparently, aquariums have the added advantage of "luck-bringing qualities when
properly positioned in the home".
Ornamental fish keeping is a Chinese tradition, the first goldfish
being developed in China about the year AD 1000. (They were established in Japan by 1500,
reached Europe in the 1600s, and were introduced to America a little later). Nowadays Hong
Kong is of course a major centre for breeding and exporting aquarium fish.
My tourist map told me that the "exotic Goldfish Market"
was to be found in Kowloon on Tung Choi Street, next to the "colourful Flower
Market" and the "charming Bird Garden". So on my second day in Hong Kong I
naturally made a beeline for the Goldfish Market, and was truly amazed at what I found
there!
Hong Kong is one of those cities where trades of the
same kind are all located together, and two or three blocks of Tung Choi Street are lined
on both sides with well over one hundred aquarium stores. I didn't attempt to count them
or even look at them all - for all I know there could be two hundred! Curiously, mixed in
with the aquarium stores at one end of the street are quite a few bicycle shops, which
reminded me of the old saying about needing something "like a fish needs a
bicycle"! Further along Tung Choi Street is the "Ladies' Market",
where bargain-priced clothing and household accessories are sold.
Tung Choi
Street, lined on both sides with aquarium stores.
Aquarium
store
.aquarium store
.aquarium store....aquarium store
Most of the aquarium stores are small; a single room
fifteen or twenty feet wide, and not much deeper. But what they lack in space they make up
for in stock. The stores are crammed with fish tanks and the tanks are stuffed with huge
numbers of exotic fish. Many stores have room inside for just a handful of browsers at a
time, and business is so brisk that shoppers have to wait their turn or edge their way in
to look at the tanks. But here comes the amazing part : you don't have to go inside a
store to buy - the fish are all bagged up and ready to go, hanging in huge quantities on
racks outside! You can take your pick of common or rare fish of any size and in any
quantity, and of course at very competitive prices. If you don't see what you want, you
can just stroll down the street and look at more and more racks of fish bags.
Typical
displays of ready-to-go fish

The prices here are in $Hong
Kong.
(Hong Kong $7.8 = US$1)

Getting in the small crowded
stores is difficult,
and it is sometimes hard even to see the
outside racks. |

The fish at the top is one of
my favourites,
Myxocyprinus asiatica sinensis, for US$10.

Catch your own goldfish |
As you can see, the shoppers in these photos are
dressed in their heavy winter coats. It was December, the middle of winter, when
temperatures average about 15ºC (60ºF), and lower with wind chill. Despite this,
tropical fish of all kinds were hanging outside in their bags to shiver. It seems
like a lot of work and handling, but I am told the fish are kept in holding tanks
overnight and re-bagged every morning.
All the bags had prices clearly marked on them, and I jotted down a
few typical prices
per bagful (in $US):
10 Tiger barbs, $2; 10 Platies, $2; 4 Angelfish, $2; 4 Gouramis, $4; 4
Scats, $5;
200 Neon tetras (!), $9; Male bettas, 70c each; 6" Sturgeons, $5 each;
Various African cichlids, 4 for $1.50; Large quantities of guppies, $2 to $6 per
bag;
Very bright small 3" koi, 11c each (!).
Most of the stores have general stock, but some
specialise in various aspects of fishkeeping, including of course salt water, goldfish,
koi, African cichlids, angelfish, discus, aquatic plants, and dry goods. You don't just
find one store of each type - for every interest there are numerous specialists. The
specialist stores generally take a more sophisticated approach to their sales - you get to
see their fish in tanks rather than plastic bags! - but they are also crowded and small,
so I didn't get many photos of them. They have a huge number of varieties and species of
fish, including quite a few that I had never seen before.

A goldfish specialist

|

A cichlid specialist

|
If you don't
have a store, just sell koi on the curb!

Some aquatic plants on the
pavement
outside a store.

This lady was packaging fish
food. |

Fish and plants ready-to-go.
Plants are packaged in long thin bags.

She also had plants, and a
tray full of turtles. |
A couple of days later I went back to the Goldfish
Market!
I had another good look at the fish, and then walked a few blocks through the truly
colourful Flower Market, to the Bird Garden. Apparently birds used to be sold on a street
much like the aquarium street, but the bird stores have since been gathered together in a
special park-like compound.

"Welcome to Bird
Garden"

A great variety of birds
|

The Bird Garden has about
fifty shops like these.

| Exotic birds in these hand made
cages sell for US$20 -25. Apparently Chinese gamblers think
that birds bring good luck, and will even take them along in small cages when they go to
the horse races. |
|
Sometimes I visit a city and think "I wouldn't
mind living here". I didn't get that feeling in Hong Kong, because crowds
and high-rise apartments are not for me. But I wouldn't mind living around the
corner from Tung Choi Street! I have never before seen so many different fish
together at one time as I did there. I even had the crazy idea that there were more fish
there than the total I had ever seen in my life! Perhaps not....but just think....
to see all the fish in one hundred stores you would have to visit a different well-stocked
store every week for two years!
***
ADDENDUM: After reading the above, Eric Ho
of Hong Kong kindly sent me the following information, which I'm sure will be of interest
to those visiting Hong Kong:
"I would like to tell you that there is an open air fish market in Kowloon. It is
located in Boundary Street near the Mongkok Stadium. This fish market is organized by
hawkers who sell ornamental fishes on the street, on a semi-wholesale basis. The market
opens everyday at around 4 a.m. in the morning and closes before sunrise.
'The fish market started in the 1960's outside the Mongkok train station. Fish shop
owners from all over Hong Kong went to the fish market to buy their stock. As time went
by, some of the hawkers earned enough money and they began to open their own shops.
'During the early 1980's, the government began to build a new train station. The fish
market moved to nearby Boundary Street. Some of the hawkers began to open their own shops
in Tung Choi Street. After that, more and more fish shops opened in Tung Choi Street.
'Nowadays, the open air fish market still operates in Boundary Street. The size and
popularity of the fish market is reducing since many shop owners buy their fish directly
from fish farms.
'Next time you visit Hong Kong, I hope that you can visit the fish market. Please
remember to bring an electric torch!"
See also, after a later visit to Hong Kong
and China -
A Tour of China in Winter:
Part 1a: Introduction, and the Tourist Sights
of Beijing (Tourist sights)
Part 1b: A Visit to the Beijing Aquarium
(Public aquarium)
Part 1c: An Arcade of Aquarium Shops in
Beijing (Aquarium shops)
Part 1d: The Beijing Museum of
Natural History (Tourist sights)
Part 2a: Xi'an and the Army of
Terracotta Warriors (Tourist sights)
Part 2b: An Aquarium Market in Xi'an
(Aquarium shops)
Part 3a: The Spectacular Scenery of Guilin
(Tourist sights)
Part 3b: A Visit to the Guilin Ocean
Aquarium (Public aquarium)
Part 4a: The Space-Age City of Shanghai (Tourist sights)
Part 4b: A Visit to the Shanghai Ocean
Aquarium (Public aquarium)
Part 4c: Jiangyin Road, a Street of Aquarium
Shops in Shanghai (Aquarium shops)
Part 5: Fish Seen in Chinese
Restaurants (Native fish)
Part 6a: A Photographic Visit to Ocean Park,
Hong Kong (Public aquarium)
Part 6b: The Goldfish Pagoda at Ocean Park,
Hong Kong (Public aquarium)
Or, back to:
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